Regan Kennedy is a Calgary-based climber who has travelled to many international destinations for bouldering.
Kennedy recently returned to Canada from a short trip to Hueco Tanks in Texas. While bouldering is one of her main focuses, it’s not the only one. In 2015, she spent many hours projecting a hard sport route close to home.
What was the project that had you busy last year?
Last year, I was working Ojas 5.14, a sport route put up by Lev Pinter at Acephale in the Bow Valley.
How is your comp season going?
The fall/winter comp season is going well! I use comps to gauge my climbing training and mental training. We aren’t done the season yet, but so far I’m happy with how I have climbed and I’ve been learning a lot.
How long have you been competing and will you continue this year?
I have been competing pretty much since I started climbing, so about eight or nine years. Yes, as long as my body can tolerate it, I will compete. I like the comradery, challenge and it definitely helps to pass the long winter months.
When did you head down to Hueco and what was the weather like?
We left for Heuco in mid-December. The first few days, we had amazing weather, but then things took a turn for the worse. Cool temps, mostly cloudy and some rain and snow. Not ideal conditions for out there, as I find you need a little warmth for good friction (counter intuitive, for sure). We made due, got out a lot and climbed a ton.
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Had you climbed there before and who did you go with?
This was my third trip to Heuco, but it has been three years since we were there last. Josh Muller and I went down, but as always there was a gaggle of friends there from Canada and the U.S.A.
What’s the Hueco winter scene like?
Usually pretty busy down in Hueco this time of year, but not so much this season. Could have been the terrible forecast that kept people away?
What were your projects going down?
I had left behind a climb called Free Willy, so I wanted to do that while I was there. In the end, I realized that I wasn’t ready to commit to doing the last move, so I abandoned the project. I ended up trying a bunch of new problems and had success on them, so I’m really happy with my trip.
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Did you climb well throughout?
Yes, I generally turn things into epics, but this trip I was completing climbs within a few tries.
What was your biggest send and how long did it take?
I did a handful of V8s that took only a couple of tries. To me this is a bigger accomplishment then working V10 to death.
What was your favourite route?
Of the new routes that I climbed this trip I really liked Frogger V9, it was almost like it was built specifically for me and how I like to climb. Nice big movement on small holds with great feet.
What’s your focus for 2016?
I will be back on Ojas this summer and I hope to have some time to climb elsewhere. My focus is and always will be to maintain my health, keep my climbing and work life balanced and keep progressing.
How often and where do you train?
I train three times a week at the Calgary Climbing Centre for climbing-specific training and then once a week with the trainers at Revolution Human Performance on functional movement and strength based training.
Excited to be back in winter?
Yes and no. I am happy to be back at work and with our doggie, Jade. Dreaming of the next trip will keep me going through winter.
– For more from Regan, visit here.
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by Ben aka Butters