Watch Mathilde Becerra send the Bishop classics Soul Singer V9 and Low Rider V10.
– Follow Mathilde Becerra on Instagram here.
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Mathilde Becerra Sends Bishop Problems
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Shauna Coxsey and Training With a Finger Injury
Finger injuries can end a climber’s session, season or year and knowing how to prevent and care for them is important.
In this clip, Shauna Coxsey trains for a World Cup while resting an injured finger.
“She was always adamant that she didn’t want to work with a coach…until the point that she asked me to coach her,” says Mark Glennie.
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Watch the Making of Climbing Hold
Laurent Laporte is an international route setter and shapes new holds for Ente Prises (EP).
In this short clip, Laporte tells the story of a climbing hold from start to finish.
EP Holds shaping story from Entre Prises Climbing Walls on Vimeo.
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New Fitz Roy Route and Patagonia Season Highlights
Like many Patagonia seasons previous, this is a busy one with a number of big sends.
The most recent news is the big new route climbed by Quinn Brett, Max Barlerin and Michael Lukens. Called a “mega line” on Pataclimb.com, the new route climbs 13 pitches on the south face of Fitz Roy right of The Washington Route. They sent the route in a day and bivied on the summit. “A great route that, because of its quality, deserves to become a classic,” as stated on Pataclimb.com.
The season started at the end of the Patagonia winter season last October when Marc Andre-Leclerc soloed Aguja Standhardt via a Tomahawk and Exocet link-up, which was the second solo of the peak. On the same trip. Leclerc made the first solo of El Mocho up Voie des Benitiers 5.10 A1 and the third solo of Rubio y Azul 5.10 350m. He also made a free solo of a link-up of Rayuela to Mastica e Sputa WI5 M5 300m.
On Cerro Solo, Colin Haley climbed a new route called El Dragon. On Cerro Adela, Dani Ascaso, Lise Billon, Santi Padros and Jerome Sullivan climbed a new route called Balas y Chocolate WI5+ A2 M6+ 900m up the east face. Back on El Mocho, Martin Marovski and Viktor Varoshkin made the first ascent of The Approach Line 5.10 A2 450m.
On Cerro Torre, Marcus Pucher attempted a winter solo in September, it was the second winter attempt after Haley in 2014. No one has soloed the route in virgin conditions, all solos come after ascents have cleared the way. Pucher made it to the Elmo before retreating.
Most of the season’s big sends have been on Torre Egger. Korra Pesce, Roli Striemitzer and Tomy Aguilo made the second ascent of Psycho Vertical 5.10 A3 900m. Their ascent was followed by Inaki Coussirat and Carlitos Molina’s.
Haley made the first solo ascent of Punta Herron and Torre Egger up Spigolo dei Bimbi 5.10 350m and the Huber-Schnarf 5.10 200m in just over 16 hours. Free soloing almost everything, he rope-soloed four pitches on Spigolo and four on the Huber. His roundtrip took 27 hours, a rope, some gear, three litres of water and no stove or bivy gear.
On Aguja Pachamama, Gediminas Simutis and Saule Simute climbed a 300-metre 5.10 and named it Ziggy Stardust in memory of the late David Bowie.
On Fitz Roy, Haley and Andy Wyatt made the fastest car-to-car summit with their fast send of the Supercanaleta. Also on the Fitz, David Bacci and Matteo Della Bordella made the second ascent of the Pilar Este 5.10 A3 1,200m.
There have also been new routes climbed on Colmillo Central, Aguja Dumba, Aguja de l’S and Hielo Continental.
With a number of strong climbers hoping for good weather and gearing up for new routes, we will surely have more news from the 2015/16 Patagonia season.
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David Lama and Conrad Anker Attempt Nepal Peak
In Nov. 2015, David Lama and Conrad Anker climbed to a new highpoint on the headwall of Lunag Ri, a 6,907-metre peak on the border of Nepal and Tibet.
The Austrian-American team gave everything to be the first to reach the virgin summit. In the end, due to freezing temperatures and strong wind the only reasonable option was to retreat.
David Lama and Conrad Anker on the splitter headwall of Lunag Ri in Nepal.
“Had we reached the summit, our climb would have been perfect,” summarized David Lama, who visited his father’s home village during the expedition.
“In turn, we still have our fingers. On the way down, we warmed them in our pockets. They will surely be useful on our next attempt, which we have set our sights on for next year.”
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The New Grivel Captive Carabiner
Stevie Haston presents the new Grivel Captive carabiner, the anti cross-loading carabiner.
Cross-loading happens when a carabiner is stressed on its minor axis. Carabiners are strongest when stressed on their major axis meaning directly in line, vertically, along the spine.
When a carabiner is stressed on its minor axis it’s generally one third as strong. The second problem with carabiners happens when the carabiner “turns” on your rack and you have to unlock it as fast as possible.
The third problem happens when you want to clip the carabiner and in the meantime it has turned in the quickdraw.
The new Grivel Captive helps to fix these problems.
The post The New Grivel Captive Carabiner appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
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Watch a Squamish Climbing Video
Watch Mason Pitchel climb the classic Sesame Street and Andrew Mckean send his first V10, King Kong.
INCREDIBLE NEW CRAG DISCOVERED IN SQUAMISH, BC from Mason Pitchel on Vimeo.
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Watch a 60-metre Squamish Rope Swing!
Watch this film by Kris and Ryan Harris of a massive 60-metre Squamish rope swing!
iPhone6 – 200ft Rope Swing – Squamish Chief from Beacon Media Group on Vimeo.
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Tom Ballard Sends New European D15-
Tom Ballard has sent his new D15- project in the Italian Dolomites.
Tom Ballard is the son of the famous alpinist Alison Hargreaves, who died on K2 in 1995 at the age of 33. Alison was pregnant with Tom with she climbed the north face of the Eiger.
In the winter of 2014/15, Ballard climbed the Eiger’s north face in winter while soloing the six great north faces of the Alps in one winter season.
Last summer, he was also working on developing a new crag in Italy he called Tomorrow’s World, which is a 50-metre roof near Passo Fedaia in Italy.
In 2015, he established a number of drytooling routes at the cave, including Edge of Tomorrow D13, Fear Index D12, Real Steel D9, Ovlivian D14, Let Them Eat Cake D13+ and Je Ne Sais Quoi D14+.
Ballard’s new route is reported to be D15-, which would make it one of the most difficult winter routes anywhere. Drytooling or “D” routes are different than “M” routes in that they don’t have ice on them. Europe has a number of drytool-only crags, which have natural and manufactured holds.
Also in European drytooling news, Marianne van der Steen flashed Kamasutra D13+ at Bus del Quai di Eseo in Italy.
More details to come and be sure to follow Ballard on Instagram here.
Tom Ballard working on one of his big projects at Tomorrow’s World. Photo Tom Ballard collection. For more photos of Ballard sending, visit here.
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Yuji Hirayama and Friends Go Deep Water Soloing
Watch episode one of the Wine Dine Climb series where Yuji Hirayama climbs with James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini.
Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama spent seven years in France as a child. He returns to the Mediterranean in this new series from EpicTV.
Along with manager/filmmaker duo Sandra Ducasse and Francisco Taranto Jr., their kids and dog, the team set off to do some serious deep water soloing, wine drinking, steep sport routes and cheese sampling.
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Ice Climbing Welcomed at Youth Olympics 2016
The UIAA has announced that ice climbing will be part of the 2016 Youth Olympic Games in Lillehammer, Norway.
From Feb. 12 to 21, top youth athletes in a number of sports will be heading to Norway to compete. Ice Climbing will part of the Sjoggfest (meaning snow festival and named after the event mascot, Sjogg).
The UIAA has worked with the International Olympic Committee (IOC), the Lillehammer Youth Olympic Games Organising Committee (LYOGOC) and the Tyrili climbing center in defining a specific program for ice climbing.
The program will feature two elements. The first comprises masterclass sessions where three top-level ice climbers will demonstrate their prowess and provide the watching public with an introduction to the sport – its speed, technique, power and different disciplines.
The second component of the programme is dedicated to the public who will be able to experience ice climbing for themselves under the guidance and supervision of UIAA experts and volunteers from the 2016 LYOGOC organizing committee.
Ice climbing’s appearance in Lillehammer forms part of the UIAA’s commitment to making the sport part of the official Winter Olympic competition programme in 2022.
Canada has a number of strong youth ice climbing competitors who could make the trip. Two of the most experienced are Karlee Hall and Noah Beek.
For more info about the 2016 Youth Olympic Games please visit here.
Noah Beek and Karlee Hall with their golds at the first Youth Ice Comp in Durango, CO.
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Ice Climbing Tips From Will Gadd
Will Gadd gives a few pointers for those hoping to get into ice climbing.
– Be sure to follow Will Gadd on Instagram here.
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Watch Will Mayo Send Splitter 5.12d
Watch Will Mayo send a splitter Arizona crack.
Synesthesia 5.12d was first climbed by Rodney Blakemore and is found in the Cave Springs area of Sedona.
Weaving Sensory Pathways on “Synesthesia” (5.12d), Sedona, Arizona from Will Mayo on Vimeo.
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Mascarenas and Coleman are New USA Bouldering National Champs
The USA Climbing Bouldering National Championships finals took place in Madison on Jan. 30.
In 2015, Nathaniel Coleman and Megan Mascarenas were the talk of the town with their impressive comp results. At the first major American comp of 2016, they proved it was no fluke and both won for their category.
In the finals, five male climbers made it to the top of three of the four problems and Mascarenas and Alex Puccio dominated for the women.
Daniel Woods and Puccio had won the previous nine National comps.
Finals Results Male / Female
1. Nathaniel Coleman / Megan Mascarenas
2. Jimmy Webb / Alex Puccio
3. Carlo Traversi / Claire Blurfeind
4. Daniel Woods / Micheala Kiersch
5. Tyler Landman / Meagan Martin
6. Kai Lightner / Sierra Blair-Coyle
7. Mohammad Jafari Mahmodabadi / —
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Canadians at Final Ice World Cup of 2016
The final Ice Climbing World Cup of 2016 has wrapped up in Rabenstein, Italy.
A number of Canadians made the trip to Italy for the big event. The overall winners were Korean Han Na Rai Song for the women and Slovenian Janez Svoljsak for the men.
For Canadian women in qualifications, Karlee Hall finished in 36th, Rebecca Lewis 30th and Ineke Rhebergen in 29th.
For the men’s qualifications, Gord McArthur finished in 14th and Noah Beek in 9th in their group. Beek was the only Canadian to advance to semi-finals and finished the day in 16th overall.
After the event Beek said, “The Rabenstein World Cup is over and I finished 16th overall. I am very happy with my results. Thanks to everyone who has supported me. Next weekend will be the World Juniors, which are also in Rabenstien.”
You can watch the finals for the World Cup here and for a full list of results visit here.
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Brette Harrington Solos Patagonia Route
American alpinist Brette Harrington has arrived in Patagonia for the winter.
On her Instagram, she reported soloing the classic route called Austriaca on Aguja de l’S. The route was first climbed in 1987 by Hans Bärnthaler and Ewald Lidl from Austria.
Pataclimb.com has reported that the route was soloed by other Americans. In 1996 Charlie Fowler ran a solo lap and then Colin Haley in 2011 and Josh McClure in 2012
There are two major variations, one from the east and one from the west. Harrington’s ascent took two-and-a-half hours and she made it at night.
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Short Film On Squamish Crack Clean and Climb
The folks at Squamish Obscurities clean and climb Report All Poachers 5.10b.
The re-scrubbed 30-metre crack is located on Riant Ridge in the Valley of Shaddai area. “We had honey gold light filtering through the trees to help make for a beautiful experience.”
Read the Gripped article called “Get to Know the Diggers” about other Squamish climbers who spend their time bringing new life to overgrown routes.
The post Short Film On Squamish Crack Clean and Climb appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
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Watch a Short Film on Quebec Dry-Tooling
Quebec has some excellent dry-tooling and this short film focuses on the popular winter crag called St. Alban.
The post Watch a Short Film on Quebec Dry-Tooling appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
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Canadians Sending in Japan, Scotland, Patagonia and Tasmania
Some of Canada’s top climbers have gone abroad for ice, rock and icy rock.
First was a trip to Scotland for the icy rock. Alpine climbers Ian Welsted and Raphael Slawinski were invited to the annual BMC winter festival. The two Piolet d’Or-winning climbers became ambassadors of the Alpine Club of Canada for the trip.
Once word spread, other crushing Canucks joined in the adventure. Marc-Andre Leclerc, Paul McSorley, Jon Walsh, Michelle Kadatz and photographer Paul Bride packed the hard shells for a few weeks of hard traditional climbing and scotch drinking. Early reports are that Leclerc has been busy running solo laps on many of the moderate classics. More photos and stories to come.
In South America, alpine crushers Alik Berg and Fred McGuinness have been sessioning big clean granite in Patagonia. They have ticked a number of big routes including the 450-metre Beger/Jennings on Aguja Guillaumet and topped out the Aguja Mermoz.
Strong ice climbers Will Gadd and Sarah Hueniken are on a trip to Japan with photographer John Price. Their trip started with warm weather and lots of snow, a classic “Japanuary” as climbers and skiers have called it. Over the past few days, conditions have improved and they have made a few ascents of big ice.
They are currently climbing in the Zao Ice Garden, which has a combination of what looks like waterfall ice and spray ice. More from their trip shortly.
Finally, Sonnie Trotter and Will Stanhope are climbing in Australia. With photographer Cam Maier, they have been making sends of the iconic Totem Pole in Tasmania.
They arrived to a big storm, which Trotter wrote the following about on his social media: “7,000 people in Tasmania are without power or water enduring the same horrendous tropical storm we’re sitting out right now.
“The Tassie drought is officially over and we’re so glad to be a witness to the wetness.” More from their trip shortly.
@willstanhope @sonnietrotter
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Watch New Girlie and Burly Flick
Watch this BMC TV short film with Xian Goh, which is part of their Women in Mountain Adventure Film.
The post Watch New Girlie and Burly Flick appeared first on Gripped Magazine.
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